In order to perfectly customize lash extensions based on the clients' eyes, learning the art of lash mapping is essential. It is the act of dividing the eye into different zones graphically to determine what kind of lash length is required for each zone of the natural lash line. As a beginner, it can seem like a big undertaking which is why there are certain lash extension styles that can help lash techs try their hand at mapping for the first time.
Professional lash techs with experience may be well-versed in the lengths, thicknesses and curls of lash extensions as applied to each eye. The majority of the time, they don't even need to map zones. This is where lash extension styles prove to be so handy for beginners trying to create a lash look. For someone new, lash mapping that relies on several styles can be of immense use in order to quickly develop the exact look you want.
Here we have enlisted the top 5 lash extension styles that many new lash techs could benefit from learning from as they move forward in their lash-making journey.
The doll-eye extension style is a great fit for clients that have mono lids and hooded or almond eyes. It is a style used to increase the size of one's eyes, giving a more opened-up effect. It does this by placing shorter-length lashes on the inner and outer corners of the eyes.
When it comes to doll eyes mapping, the task at hand is to create the largest zone in the middle surrounding the iris so that the longer lashes can be placed in this area of the eye. For this, spot the iris and then form a zone including the iris for the longest lashes. To further open up the eyes, individual extensions and fans can be used to give a more custom eye look to your client
Cat-eye eyelash extension
Among the most popular lash extension styles, cat eyelashes give a timeless extension style by tapering the eyes and giving them a snatched appearance. Those with round eyes looking to elongate their eyes can opt for this eyelash extension style as it cancels out the roundness of the eye shape by adding shorter lash extensions in the inner corners of the eye and longer lashes for the outer edges of the eye.
The main thing to remember with this look is to add longer lashes in the second last zone of the lash line. This can really lift up the eyes and is a great option for clients in general but especially those with droopy eyes.
Kim K eyelash extension
The Kim-K lash extension style has created quite the buzz in the lashing scene. Their distinction lies in the zig-zag pattern when lash extensions are applied.
To achieve this look, lash artists use varying lengths of lashes and alternate between the two lengths along the lash line.
For example, for a client with short lashes, lash extension lengths can vary between 10 and 11 mm, depending on the client's natural lash length. If they have longer natural lashes, then 10-14mm lash lengths are common. Regardless, for the Kim-K look, longer lash extensions need to apply sparsely, even if clients have short natural lashes.
Also known as the classic eyelash extension style, this extension style is usually the first one learned by most beginner lash techs. At a 1:1 ratio, these lashes are applied onto the natural lashes. For example, if a client has 60 natural eyelashes on each eye, then it will take 60 classic/natural lash extensions for application. The usual lash extensions in a natural lash extension set are between 30-60 for each eye.
Since it is a very natural extension style, it is important to remember when lash mapping for such a style that extra long extensions are a no-go for this look since it wants the natural look to stay intact. Lash lengths of somewhere around 10,11,12 are appropriate lengths to try out for the lash map.
This is one of the eyelash extension styles that gives a very natural looking lash appearance. This look has parallels with the cat-eye look when it comes to lash mapping with the main difference being that, unlike cat-eye, squirrel eye does not have large variances in length.
Squirrel eye uses a lash mapping technique in which different lash lengths are added in rapid sequence. There are more zones in this style than any other, and it's relatively more difficult to master if you're a beginner lash technician. It's fantastic to brighten your client's eyes and open them up.